Monday 31. January 2011

MY LONG WING BROGUES: MARK MCNAIRY X ENGINEERED GARMENTS.

Mark McNairy x Engineered Garments Long Wing Brogues

Long Wing Broguet ovat hyvin klassinen kenkämalli ja niitä voi hyvin pitää miesten kenkäkaapin kulmakivenä. Sain vihdoinkin hankittua omani jotka kahden erinomaisen brändin yhteistyön tulos. Mark McNairya kohtaan osoittamasti kunnioituksestani voi lukea viime viikon postauksesta, kun taas Engineered Garments edustaa koko heritage tyylisuuntauksen parhaimmistoa.

ENG: Long Wing Brogues are a really classic model and it can be said that they belong to every men’s shoe closets cornerstones. I finally got mines which are a great result of two great brands. In my last weeks post I told about my respect towards Mark McNairy whereas Engineered Garments represents the hall of fame of the whole heritage fashion.

Mark McNairy x Engineered Garments Long Wing Brogues 3

Bench made in northern England.

Mark McNairy x Engineered Garments Long Wing Brogues 4

Mark McNairy x Engineered Garments Long Wing Brogues 5
Goodyear welted double leather sole.

Mark McNairy x Engineered Garments Long Wing Brogues 2

Mismatching of materials.

-Tuukka

Sunday 30. January 2011

RECAP: INSPIRATIONAL BRANDS AT CAPSULE, PARIS.

Tässä valikoima eri brändejä Pariisin Capsulesta, jotka tulevat tarjoamaan ensi syksylle ja talvelle mielenkiintoisia vaatteita ja kenkiä.

ENG: Here is set of brands from Paris’ Capsule that will offer interesting collections for the Fall-Winter 2011.

Tuukka at Mens Fashion Week, Paris - Taylor Supply is inspired by American Wear

Taylor Supply – The New Yorker brand by Christophe Hascoat is based on great quality and inspired by American workwear from 1920’s to 1950’s. Simple items made to look and feel great.

Tuukka at Mens Fashion Week, Paris - Rocky Mounatain Featherbed FW 2011, Capsule

Rocky Mountain Featherbed – A brand founded in 1960’s in Wyoming, USA. They are known for best quality vests with leather details. In 1980’s the whole brand dissapeared but in 2005 a Japanese vintage specialists relaunced the traditional brand. The collection includes classic vests in various colors but also perfect down jackets with the same leather details.

Tuukka at Mens Fashion Week, Paris - Workers Knitting Mills FW 2011, Capsule

Workers Knitting Mills – The Italian brand is based on the idea of to redoing clothing that have been originally created for the U.S. military academies and their sports teams. I like especially that these simple pieces can be used in many several ways. And everything is made in Italy.

Tuukka at Mens Fashion Week, Paris - Pendleton Woolen Mills Blankets, Capsule

Tuukka at Mens Fashion Week, Paris - Pendleton Woolen Mills Bag, Capsule

Pendleton Woolen Mills – A real American heritage company founded in 1909 whose heritage is based on Native American fabrics . They have had a lot of publicity in last years thanks to many interesting collaborations. I always get inspired by their native American stuff.

Tuukka at Mens Fashion Week, Paris - Yuketen Boots FW 2011, Capsule

Tuukka at Mens Fashion Week, Paris - Yuketen Boots and Shoes FW 2011, Capsule

Tuukka at Mens Fashion Week, Paris - Monitaly Jackets FW 2011, Capsule

Yuketen & Monitaly – The now Californian but originally Japanese Yuki Matsuda is the mastermind behind high quality Yuketen boots but also less know Monitaly clothing company.

Yukuten’s new collection was really wide-ranging and did not leave space for disappointments. I really feel that after meeting Yuki in person and being able to see and feel the whole collection I have to finally buy my first pair of Yuketens.

I was not that familiar with Yuki’s clothing company Monitaly, but found many jackets that did match my interests. Monitaly’s name is derived from Yuki’s three inspirational loves: his daughter Monica, Military and Italy. The company’s philosophy is that Every stitch has a soul which can definitely be seen in the only-the-best quality and materials.

Look out for these brands.

-Tuukka

Friday 28. January 2011

KITSUNÉ F/W 2011 AT MEN’S FASHION WEEK, PARIS.

The Maison Kitsuné Fall-Winter 2011 Collection at Men's Fashion Week in Paris 5

Vuonna 2002 perustettu Kitsuné tunnetaan levyyhtiönä jonka alla on julkaistu monen tunnetun elektroniisen musiikin artistin levyjä (esim. La Roux, Digitalism,). Vaikka Kitsunén takana olevat ranskalainen Gildas Loaëc ja japanilainen Masaya Kuroki päätyivätkin perustamaan yhdessä brändin jaettujen musiikki- ja muotintressien ansiosta on brändin vaatemallistosta vasta viime vuosina tullut tutuksi suurelle yleisölle.

ENG: In year 2002 created Kitsuné is well-know as record label that has released many great electronic music artists’ albums (e.g. La Roux, Digitalism ). Even though the French Gildas Loaëc ja Japanese Masaya Kuroki got together in the first place because of the their common interest towards music and fashion has the label become worldwide popular for the fashion collection only during the recent years.

The Maison Kitsuné Fall-Winter 2011 Collection at Men's Fashion Week in Paris 6

The Maison Kitsunén F/W 2011 mallisto on tribuutti Ang Leen Brokeback Mountain elokuvalle. Tätä ei mallistosta näe, mutta klassinen 60-luvun amerikkalainen tyyli kuvaa designeja.

ENG: The Maison Kitsuné F/W 2011 collection is a tribute to Ang Lee’s Brokeback Mountain movie. You cannot see this from the collection, but the 60’s American style is definitely seen in the designs.

The Maison Kitsuné Fall-Winter 2011 Collection at Men's Fashion Week in Paris 2

The Maison Kitsuné Fall-Winter 2011 Collection at Men's Fashion Week in Paris

Laajassa mallistossa on yksinkertaisia arkisia vaatteita, mutta myös ainutlaatuisia erikoisuuksia kuten mokkanahkainen baseball takki, massiivinen cashmere cardigan sekä Harris Tweedistä tehtyjä pikkutakkeja. Mallistosta pystyy kokoamaan asuja niin virallisempiin kuin rennompiin lookkeihin. Ehkä juuri näiden hybridi onkin Kitsunén vahvuus.

ENG: The wide collection provides simple clothes that are great for daily wear, but also unique pieces like a perfect suade baseball jacket, a massive cashmere cardigan and Harris Tweed made jackets. The collection allows to create both more formal as well as relaxed looks. Maybe even the best of Kitsuné is the hybrid of these two looks.

The Maison Kitsuné Fall-Winter 2011 Collection at Men's Fashion Week in Paris 4

Kitsune FW 2011 MG_5419

Kitsune FW 2011 MG_5370

Lookbook photos from Kitsune.fr.

Kitsune is releasing soon the new compilation album called ”Kitsuné Parisien”. Listen to the sample minimix here below.

-Tuukka

Thursday 27. January 2011

MARK MCNAIRY AT (CAPSULE), PARIS MEN’S FASHION WEEK.

Tuukka at Mens Fashion Week, Paris - Mark McNairy New Amsterdam Buck Shoes and Long Wing Brogues at Capsule

Mark McNairy on tullut laajasti tutuksi vuonna 2009 lanseeratulla New Amsterdam kenkämallistollansa sekä lukuisilla collaboraatiolla useiden tunnettujen brändien kuten Our Legacyn ja Engineered Garmentsin kanssa. Aikaisemmin McNairy on työskennellyt myös eri vaatebrändeillä kuten J.Pressillä ja 68 & Brothersilla. Nykyään hän on myös Woolrich Woolen Millsin luova johtaja.

Oli suuri kunnia tavata herra McNairy, sillä olen itse olen hänen kenkiensä suuri ystävä. Hän kertoi lisäävänsä jatkuvasti uusia designeja mallistoon, sekä säilyttävän vanhoja malleja. Kaiken kaikkiaan hyvin rauhallinen ja rento kaveri, jolla on selvästi oikea mentaliteetti kenkien suunitteluun.

ENG: Mark McNairy came very popular after he had launched in 2009 the famous New Amsterdam shoe collection, and has done after that numerous collaborations with brands like Our Legacy and Engineered Garments. Previously McNairy has worked for various clothing brands like J.Press and 68 & Brothers. Since last summer he is also the creative designer for Woolrich Woolen Mills.

It was a great honour for me to meet personally Mr. McNairy as I am a big fan of his designs. He told that he is continuosly adding designs to the collections but also keeping old models. Overall he was a really relaxed and laid-back guy who seems to have just a great mentality for shoe design.

Tuukka at Mens Fashion Week, Paris - Mark McNairy's improved Buck shoes and Double Monk Straps at Capsule

In the upcoming collections the classic Buck and Saddle shoe models have been improved with colorful soles. I assume they will be a hit during summer times (if they a released then). I also liked the denim chukka boots and the double monk straps both with crepe and brick sole.

Tuukka at Mens Fashion Week, Paris - Mark McNairy New Amsterdam's Clothing Collectiona at Capsule

Mark McNairy New Amsterdam will include a more advanced clothing line in the future. They were quite different looking from the shoes collection on the first sight, but when seeing his own style and at the same time being conscious that he inspired by the military stuff it made sense. Anyhow I am looking forward to see them be worn.

Tuukka at Mens Fashion Week, Paris - Mark McNairy New Amsterdam Boots Colorful Buck's and Classic Colorways at Capsule

Long wing brogues with many different classic color variations, summertime saddle shoes and classic hi ankle boots.

Tuukka at Mens Fashion Week, Paris - Mark McNairy New Amsterdam Clothing Collection's Digital Camo Prints at Capsule

The clothing collection also include digital camo trousers which the designer himself was wearing. I can say that they looked really good with classic shoes.

-Tuukka

Thursday 27. January 2011

DIEMME BOOTS AT (CAPSULE), PARIS MEN’S FASHION WEEK.

Tuukka at Mens Fashion Week, Paris - Diemme Boots

Diemmen on tullut viime vuosina tunnetuksi suosituista vaelluskengistään jotka on omaksuttu kaupunkikäyttöön. Pariisissa Capsule tradeshowssa tapasin Diemmen edustuksesta vastaavat norjalaiset. Diemme tulee Montebellunan alueelta joka on kuuluisimpia kenkäteollisuuden keskittymiä Italiassa. Oli mielenkiintoista kuulla että Diemmen takana ovat yhä alkuperäiset italilaiset veljekset, mutta norjalaiset Blender Agencylaiset vastaavat kenkien designista ympäri maailman Japania lukuunottamatta. Japanissa on oma paikallinen edustus joka vastaa myös Japanin malliston designista.

ENG: Diemme has become well-know during last years for its hiking boots that have been adopted by city people. In Paris at Capsule tradeshow I met the Norwegian Blender Agency’s people behind Diemme Europe. Diemme is from the Montebelluna area which is known to be one of Italy’s leading shoe industry towns. It was interesting to hear that Diemme is still run in Montebello by the original Italian owners who are two brothers. Nowadays Blender Agency is responsible of the designs world wide except for Japan. In Japan there is another local office who does the design for Japanese market.

Diemme Boots at Capsule 2011, Paris 2

Fall/Winter 2011-2012 mallisto oli aikaisempaa laajempi sekä tarjosi useita entistä helppokäyttöisempiä malleja jotka sopivat päivittäiseen käyttöön. Tutun Vibram -pohjan lisäksi oli mukana malleja joiden pohja muistuttaa ns. sneaker solea. Jo nyt huomiota herättäneet wing tip -kärjelliset mallit tulevat varmasti saavuttamaan suuren suosion.

ENG: The Fall/Winter 2011-2012  collection was even bigger than before and it had many models that are easy to wear on daily basis. Besides models with the familiar Vibram sole Diemme had models that had a sneaker sole. The models with a wing tip did already now stand out and they will definitely be very popular when released

Diemme Boots at Capsule 2011, Paris

Diemme Boots at Capsule 2011, Paris 3

-Tuukka